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Legacy of the Chief: Preface part 2 |
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Route of the CRNW Railway --Simpson files |
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The business car the Kennecott was most likely number 100, which was the
CRNW observation and dining car. Number 100 was one of two coaches
shipped off to the Alaska Railroad at the end of the project of the
eight CRNW passenger cars that once existed. None of these wooden
open-ended coaches are known to have survived.
Here a few of the most significant historic events and names and other
notes which are relevant to this historic novel:
1) Mt. Wrangell is known to have erupted in 1784, 1885 and 1900.
2) Edward Gates staked the Nicolai (Nikolai) claims in July, 1899.
Clarence Warner and Jack Smith staked the Bonanza claims the following
year.
Dan Kain and Clarence Warner staked Dan Creek, birthplace of Chief
Nicolai. Dan Creek was named after Dan Kain. It was primarily a gold
placer mining operation, though the creek yielded about forty tons of
copper nuggets.
3) Stephen and Mary Birch visited Alaska on their ill-fated honeymoon in
1916. Birch’s last trip to Kennecott was in 1924.
4) Kate Kennedy was the madame of McCarthy who stayed there until the
very end.
5) The Kennecott power plant burned down in August 1924. Thanks to the
existence of the Mother Lode power plant in McCarthy, Kennecott was able
to resume limited operations almost immediately. The new power plant was
built on the foundations of the old one at a cost of about one million
dollars. It was in operation by late September.
6)Descriptions of the main barracks buildings at Erie, Jumbo, Bonanza
and Mother Lode are based on the original ones. Only the Erie barrack
still stands.
7)The first Jumbo-Erie cross-cut tunnel was completed in 1924. The
second was completed in 1930, extending all the way to the Mother Lode
incline. Main access into the stope areas was by means of these four
incline tunnels. The Mother Lode incline was the deepest, extending to
the 2,800 foot level. The Erie was the shortest, extending from the Erie
100 level to the 1,050 level, where it met the Motherlode 2,600
cross-cut tunnel (the one completed in 1930). The Jumbo was the longest,
running from the 180 to the 2,500 level at a thirty-degree angle.
8) Dwyer’s Inn at Strelna burned down in 1925. It was never replaced.
9) The mill, like all the Kennecott industrial structures, was
originally painted red. All red buildings had white trim around the
windows, doors, and along the corners. The four staff buildings were
painted white with dark-green trim. In 1925, in a most unusual
departure, the upper part of the mill was painted light-gray. No other
buildings on the site were ever painted gray. By the early 1930s the
Kennecott painters restored the mill to the standard barn-red color.
10) The drug store block of downtown McCarthy burned down in 1941.
11) Green Butte was a small copper mine on McCarthy Creek which last
produced in 1925. John Barrett, founder of McCarthy, staked the claims
in 1909.
12) Operators of Consolidated-Wrangell, a surface mining company,
destroyed the electricians’ warehouse, the staff house, the
superintendent’s residence and the Stephen Birch House. They also burned
down the Bonanza barracks in 1968. The systematic destruction of
Kennecott began well before these operators when a small-time salvager
named Ray Trotuchau somehow convinced Kennecott to let him “salvage”
(destroy) the mill site as early as 1957.
13) Photos of Natives have appeared in the building of the railroad,
proving that they were involved with the railroad from the very
beginning. The company relied on all-Native crews based in Chitina to
perform some of the seasonal maintenance along the Chitina Local branch,
which is where most of this story takes place.
14) Haley Creek received its name after the railroad ceased operation.
For ease of writing, I have used the name as though it existed from the
beginning of construction.
15)A central part of the book is the destruction of Mother Lode camp. I
was the only one to recognize a photo I found at the McCarthy Museum
showing the upper ML tram terminal after it was destroyed in the
avalanche. I have included the photo in this book. In the decade that I
researched Kennecott, I never found a single written reference to the
destruction of the upper camp. The complete absence of information on
the fate of the ML camp was puzzling. Something happened up there which
the high management of Kennecott chose to cover up. In the last few
years, the best way to describe my experience with the Mother Lode and
the Marvelous operation is that it haunted me, pursuing me almost
mercilessly until I was forced to find a way to deal with it. That
event, above all else, was the prime motivation for the writing of this
book. I cannot explain how I pieced it together, but I am satisfied that
I treated the ML properly. How I accomplished that will probably remain
a mystery to the reader much as the destruction of the ML itself was a
mystery to me.
The cultural shock which hit the Ahtna Natives with the advent of the
white prospectors from the Valdez-Klutina Glacier trek in 1898-99, with
the coming of the railroad in 1909-11, and with the Chisana gold rush of
1913, is well documented.
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The clash of the two cultures continues to
this day, largely at the expense of the rural Natives. The Ahtna Indians
remain rooted to the land, still observing many of the old traditions,
especially that of the the potlatch,
as well as a more modern form of subsistence which relies heavily on the
use of the Columbia River fishwheel. A larger version of this fishwheel
can still be seen along the Yukon and lower Tanana Rivers.
White families come and go. There are few in the Copper River valley who
can trace their roots as far back as World War II, though there are a
handful who are descendants from the Valdez-Klutina Glacier
trek-survivors of 1898. Native families, on the other hand, remain
firmly rooted to the land. This is the only land they have ever known.
Individual Natives occasionally move to Anchorage or Fairbanks, or even
to the continental United States, but many, if not most, ultimately
return to the valley of the ‘Atna’tuuTs’itu’. Just as Nicolai was so
fond of reminding everyone, the Ahtna people were here in the beginning
and the Ahnas will still be here until the very end of humanity itself.
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| This is the future which
the white men will leave you--useless, empty buildings--some of
them gone completely. No railroad. No mine at
Kennecott--just scars on the land. Don't listen to these
white people. They are not here to stay. They're
here to take and to spoil, and then to leave. --Chief
Nicolai appearing to Cap Goodlataw in his vision at McCarthy,
1925. |
| Close-up of the ruins of
Jumbo barracks nos. 3 and 4, located on the Bonanza Ridge above
Kennecott, circa 1965 --Simpson files. |
The original book started as a history Kennecott. It began with a
description of the geological processes which formed the rich copper in
the Wrangell Range. This description is given to us in this novel by
Wesley Dunkle--one of Alaska’s great mining engineers. It closely
follows a published work actually written by Dunkle, except I have
updated and simplified the geological explanation. A mountain of rich
copper that extended deep within the Bonanza Ridge started it all. It
was only the depletion of the high-grade copper ore within the ridge
which brought this part of Alaskan history to an end.
If you pay close attention to Nicolai’s Raven Story of Creation after
reading Wes Dunkle’s explanation of the mountain-bulding process, you
will realize that Nicolai’s traditional raven story suggested an
explanation of how the Wrangells were formed which largely parallels the
scientific explanation provided by the mining engineer.
As the book advanced, it was the railroad which became central to the
story. Everything rode on the rails of the CRNW Railway. The story
depends on the railroad, just as the people who once lived at Chitina
did. What has been largely forgotten is that the railroad quickly became
an integral part of the life of the lower Copper River Ahtna people.
In the end, the people of the Saghani Ggaay completely hijacked this
story, transforming it from merely an interesting piece of Alaskan
Americana into an engaging tale of how the Ahtnas became closely linked
to the CRNW Railway, becoming a part while at the same time staying
apart from it. It was with the lower Ahtna people, as expressed through
the words and deeds of the complex man who was Chief Nicolai and his
dedicated follower Cap Goodlataw, that this fascinating history became
for me a truly spiritual quest.
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| We've been forced into a
world we never chose. We're no different from anyone else
except that we know where we're from. We're tied to the
land. The white man is lost. He has no roots and no feel
for the land. He would rather exploit it than try to live
with it. We can live with the white man, but not his
foolishness . . . We're all that stands between the white
man and a world that would destroy him if he continues as he
has. --Johnny Gakona in an interview with John
deHaviland at Chitina, 1923 |
| Doc Billum and Old Glory at
the Copper River near Lower Tonsina, circa 1909. --AMHA,
B94.22.254 |
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