Until the
railroad came, easy access to the coast was out of the question. The
Copper River, downriver from Taral, proved too treacherous for most
travel because of a series of very steep, narrow canyons, treacherous
rapids, and glaciers that blocked trail access by intruding into the
river. All of the combined to make access to the coast by way of the
Copper River practically impossible most of the year . . . A few of our
hardiest people, including Nicolai, made the trip once every March when
solid ice on the Copper River allowed them to follow it downriver to
Alaganik, the Chugach trading post that came into being just to provide
a p lace where the Eyak middlemen could take our Tsedi and swap it for
goods our people wanted from the Russians or the Tlingits. Our Ahtna
ancestors relied on Alaganik for some supplies during the entire Russian
occupation of the coastline. --Johnny Gakona
Map of the lower Copper
River area at the time of Euro-American contact, showing the territory
occupied by the Ahtna, Chugach, and Eyak. --Alaska Dept of Natural
Resources, Office of History & Archaeology, Report No. 50
It
was always the tsedi--the copper. The legend of the tsedi was the legacy of the
chief. Nicolai’s prospect lives with us today as a subtle, almost forgotten part
of our heritage. The mythical outcropping was real, but it was not what the
whites believed it to be. It was really only a hint that a mountain of rich
copper existed. It was intertwined with the Russian incursions. The legend
culminated in the building of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway--the
ket’cheeten-eh’thloo-da-kee that invaded the very heart of our lower
‘Atna’tuuTs’itu territory, because the legend had become reality.
The Russians came to Alaska not for the minerals, but for the pelts. The czarist
empire made a fortune, probably financing entire wars on the proceeds taken from
the Alaskan fur trade. Russia sold its monopoly of unhindered exploitation and
government-protected trading that it held in its occupied part of the Alaskan
territory to the Americans in 1867. In reality the monopolist Russian-American
trading company, which was owned by friends and family of the czar and was
protected by the Russian imperial navy, was really merely turning over its
isolated coastal strongholds that had enabled the Russians to extract a rapidly
diminishing amount of pelts from the Alaskan coastline and islands without any
regard to the Native people who had lived there long before the Russian Empire
or any European nations existed. The czar had little choice. American manifest
destiny was alive and well. It would only have been a matter of time before the
United States dominated the continent regardless. At least the Russians found a
way that they could profit, selling their interests in a failing monopoly for an
exorbitant price at a time when the U.S. navy could have taken it at almost no
cost. At the time, the relationship between the Russian and American governments
was amicable.
Twice our people drove the Russians from the valley. Lieutenant Allen asked
Nicolai about these events, but the chief told him little except to say that the
Russians, by their brutal actions, invited the retaliation. At Batzulnetas,
which was on the Slana River, the Russians mistreated our women, and drove the
men out of camp into the harsh winter weather without adequate clothing. The
ruthless Czar Nicolas the First, who no doubt set the tone for such atrocious
behavior, sent no military expeditions into our valley after 1848, though our
people expected them to return one day to return. The legends of the massacres
grew among our people until the dozen we killed had become three dozen and even
more. It is the greatest of ironies that Nicolai was named after the very czar
who held the Russian imperial throne when the Mendaesde massacred those twelve
Russians at Batzulnetas.
Our chiefs--the ones who controlled Taral--were mindful that the Russians might
someday return to avenge their dead. The elders had little doubt that another
Russian military expedition would be bloody and final. We could not live in the
same valley with the Russians. They were intolerable. Nicolai came into the
world in 1867--the year Czar Alexander II transferred his Alaskan outposts to
the United States. To the Americans, this was known as Seward’s Folly. It was a
folly, all right. The deal ignored the reality that we had lived in the land
long before there ever was an American nation.
Nicolai grew up in sight of the mountain ridge which is in the shadow of K’als’i
Tl’aadi, “the one at cold waters.” Lieutenant Allen named it Mt. Blackburn. This
ridge contained hints of the rich copper which first lured the Russians and
later enticed the Americans into our ‘Atna’tuuTs’itu, forever changing our way
of life.
Nicolai could see the narrow boat approaching Eskilida's camp just
downriver from Taral. The distinctive outline of Doc Billum in his
famous top hat was unmistakable.
Above: Doc Billum's ferry
near Lower Tonsina. --AMHA, B72.8
Doc
Billum's ferry with horses following. --Simpson files
Nicolai single-handedly created the role of supreme chief after taking the title
of chief from his older brother Hanagita in the same year in which the Allen
Expedition arrived. Hanagita was a reluctant chief at best. The duties of chief
required Hanagita to remain at Taral to guard the most direct route into the
‘Atna’tuuTs’itu. Hanagita much preferred the solitary and relatively safe life
of pursuing game up the Chitina and Nizina Rivers . It is said that when Nicolai
challenged Hanagita, his older brother simply looked at him, puzzled that he
would even want the role, handed him the traditional drum and spear, and walked
away from Taral, vanishing into the mists of history somewhere into the valley
which bears his name to this day.
Nicolai, backed up by his older brother Eskilida, immediately assumed his role,
establishing his own aggressive brand of personal control over his people while
taking over the unenviable role of guarding the main trading route leading to
the Eyaks at Alaganik. Nicolai was the gatekeeper. The Copper River had long
been the traditional access into the land of the Ahtna from the coast, although
even that was beginning to change when trading vastly increased through a much
easier route following the Tazlina River valley to the summit and crossing the
coastal divide leading to the Knik trading post near the head of Cook Inlet.
Nicolai was forever mindful that the Russians might someday return. It would be
up to him to deal with them first. Everyone knew this meant that the Russians
would have to be killed before they overwhelmed Taral and the the other
settlements of the lower and upper ‘Atna’tuuTs’itu’ country. It did not matter
that the rights to occupy the Alaskan coastline had been sold. Nicolai needed to
be personally convinced. Yet the fear of the Russians proved to be nothing more
than apprehension of a vanquished spirit--a ghost that had quietly faded away.
The Russian navy was long gone. With the birth of Nicolai, they could no longer
protect their far-flung empire. The czar abandoned Alaska forever in favor of
the American purchasers the same year Nicolai came into the world.
The spirit that quietly fades away is the common thread of this story. Nothing
was ever conquered. We certainly were not. Even the land of the Uk’eledi--that
of Mt. Wrangell, “the one with smoke on it,” was never vanquished. The land
began restoring itself almost as soon as the railroad quit running. In the end,
everything of significance simply died, sometimes without anyone being aware of
the passing at the time. First it was the Russian presence, then the railroad,
the mines, the towns, and finally the spirit that existed within the Kennicott
Glacier that Cap sensed so strongly. It simply began to quietly shrivel away, as
did the large, old mining camp which overlooked it--the place known to all as
Kennecott.
From Nicolai’s camp of C’ena’ Tsedi near the Chitistone River, Nicolai would
strike out toward the north, heading for the high hunting grounds in the ridges
along the southern slopes of the Wrangells. The Wrangells derive their name from
Baron Ferdinand von Wrangell, a red-haired Prussian governor of the
Russian-American trading company back in the 1830s. The name remains as one of
the most obvious examples of the subtle impact of the lengthy presence of the
Russians. When they left Alaska, a part of the Russian spirit remained. A
c’eyiige’ stayed behind to haunt us.
C’ena’ Tsedi, the winter home and birthplace of Nicolai, became Dan Creek. It
was named by Stephen Birch, in honor of Dan Kain. He was one of the original
eleven partners in the great Bonanza discovery and also an early partner of
Stephen and Howard Birch in the hydraulic mine operation at Dan Creek which
destroyed Nicolai’s old home. Hydraulic mining, like dredging, is one of the
white man’s more destructive local forces. The creek proved rich with copper
nuggets, though Stephen and his brother Howard were seeking placer gold. Tsedi
were everywhere in the creek beds. The hydraulic miners removed the largest
copper nugget ever found in the territory from Dan Creek.
To the north of C’ena’ Tsedi was the ridge which included the legendary, if
largely forgotten, Nicolai Prospect. An early attempt to establish a working
mine with the excavation of 300 feet of prospect tunnels convinced owners of the
Chittyna Exploration Company that it was time to move on and abandon it. The
outcropping was 4,250 feet in elevation and three and a half miles from the
junction with the McCarthy Creek trail, which was only about seven miles from
McCarthy.
The original showing consisted of spectacular colors of blues and greens said to
be of breath-taking beauty. The prospectors who first saw it in 1899 must have
thought they had found the elusive mother lode. Unfortunately, the vein quickly
pinched out and did not warrant development, as they soon found out.
Nicolai Creek originated near the prospect. The small mountain stream flowed
into McCarthy Creek. The men who discovered the famous Bonanza lode in 1900 also
staked the claims which became the Mother Lode in 1906, located only a few miles
upstream from the confluence of Nicolai and McCarthy Creeks.
For several years the Mother Lode remained little more than a prospect, as had
the Nicolai before it. Once Kennecott acquired control, it became one of the
three greatest copper mines in the district, sharing that distinction with the
Bonanza and the Jumbo, and operating under the name Mother Lode Mines Coalition
Company.
Probably largely because Nicolai’s name is permanently associated with the
original prospect which bears his name, the most famous Ahtna figure of all time
is Nicolai, a name forever linked to the copper and the tainted story associated
with it.
Chief
Nicolai and his wives, UAF Archives
This
is the only known confirmed photo which absolutely identifies the real
Chief Nicolai
If one were to believe the story as written by modern historians, it would be
easy to conclude that Nicolai gave away the rich copper which resulted in the
creation of the multi-million dollar corporation known as Kennecott for a winter
cache of food. This makes our people appear to be the victims of the treachery
of greedy white prospectors. The story is far more complicated than that.
The matter of the tsedi was not as historians made it appear. We gave away
nothing.
When Lt. Henry Allen successfully ascended the Copper River by way of the nearly
impassable Abercrombie Rapids in 1885, it was Nicolai whom he first sought. At
the unusually youthful age of eighteen, Nicolai was already the Tyone--the
supreme chief of all the ‘Atna’tuuTs’itu’ Valley.
Nicholai was not at Taral, as the lieutenant had anticipated. The Native people
at the camp included Nicolai’s brother Skilly, an old woman and two children. A
white prospector named John Bremner had been at Taral all winter. The
gold-producing tributary downriver from Taral bears his name. That was one
scraggly prospector who was not forgotten. Bremner strongly recommended that
Lieutenant Allen to turn east into the upper reaches of the Chitina and Nizina
Rivers to seek the tyone before proceeding any farther into the valley.
Lieutenant Henry Allen’s party included Sgt. Cody Robertson, Pvt. Frederick W.
Frickett, and a prospector named Peter Johnson who happened to be a partner of
Bremner’s.